Easy on the Eyes

Easy on the Eyes

Posted: Jul 13, 2009 8:30 PM
Updated: Jul 13, 2009 8:30 PM

Style Sessions: Nights Out

By Brigitte Reiss-Andersen for Style Sessions

Q. I got an eyeshadow compact with several different shades -- and no instruction manual! What do I do with all these colors?
A. Eyeshadow techniques vary depending on the shape of the eye, the look you're trying to achive and the depth of the colors. The basic idea is to create a "frame" to complement the eye. Using a supple brush, loosely apply the color from the base of the lashes up toward the crease of the lid, and also sideways from outer to inner corner. Then, with a smaller brush or a Q-tip, run the color across the base of the lower lashes. If you are unsure of your skills, choose a neutral color in the taupe family, which looks good on everyone. When you feel more confident, start adding a little highlight in a linen, champagne or light-gold color right under the arch of the eyebrow, which will brighten the eye. For added depth, apply a third color in a dark tone to the outer corner, or crease.

Q. Should I be doing my eyes up differently if I'm going to be wearing glasses?
A. It depends on how your lenses distort your eyes. If your eyes look magnified, make them darker to minimize the effect. On the contrary, if they seem smaller, stick to lighter shades and add more mascara. Another common problem with glasses is the smudge factor: Because it gets warm behind the lenses, mascara tends to end up on the cheeks instead of the eyes. Be sure to use smudge-proof mascara.

Q. My eyes are close together. How do I apply makeup to make them appear more widely set?
A. Here's a trick: keep all deeper shades toward the outer corner of your eyes and apply highlights (lighter shades) in the inner corners to "pull" the eyes apart. Using two colors accents the contrast, making the optical illusion more vivid.

Q. How do I use an eyebrow pencil so that it subtly makes my eyebrows symmetrical and natural looking?
A. Select an eyebrow pencil that best matches your brow hair color. (Women with very light hair, including gray, can go with a neutral taupe.) The idea is to apply most of the color on the hair and not on the skin to avoid a harsh look. Hold your pencil at a 170-degree angle so it's almost flat against the eyebrow. Then light-handedly draw short strokes, imitating little hairs. Finish by dusting loose powder to blend it all together.

Q. I'm confused about my mascara options. What's up with the different shades, and how do I know which will look best on me?
A. Mascara emphasizes the lashes and the lash line to make the eyes seem bigger. Use mascara to make your eyes stand out, particularly if you are very fair skinned or your makeup style is on the light side. For a more discreet look, choose brown. For intensity, use black. And if your taste fluctuates with fashion, try different colors of mascara. If you're preparing for a photo shoot, film or stage, try false eyelashes for a stronger effect.